We reluctantly head back to Delhi, hoping for a better impression this time. Our hotel is in a different area, not far from the airport. Our hotel was, well, let’s put it this way, you get what you pay for. We didn’t much.

Our hotel street. Like I said, you get what you pay for!

We had a little time before evening but didn’t want to go to far so we opted for the Ambiance Mall, not exactly sure what we’d find. It was a huge, modern mall full of the usual brand name shops along with a few unknown. It was clean and felt familiar, quite a change from where we’d come from. It had the typical food court which we decided to check out and then we spied it…..a Jamie Oliver Restaurant…..done. I was in salad heaven! There are several foods to avoid in India, salad is one of them unless you’re really sure of the restaurant. Most of the places we ate in didn’t serve salads. I’m very to announce no Delhi belly the entire trip!

The next day we booked a taxi for the day, way cheaper than it sounds. We got an awesome driver who spoke pretty good English and we were able to chat about families, life and even some politics. We’d seen Modi, the prime minister arriving in Varanasi the day we left. Elections are coming and he was on the campaign trail.

Our last day was pretty much spent shopping at Dilli Haat, an open air market selling Indian handicrafts from all over the country. I hadn’t bought much during the trip as we moved around too much so this was the last chance to pickup some goodies.

Somethings are just too big to take home

Not one pair of shoes made it into my bag this trip, must be slipping

I will miss the delicious, inexpensive Indian food

On route back to the hotel a little vegetable stand.
And then it was time to bid farewell and climb aboard the plane for home. It would be another long flight with a long layover in London before the last flight home. Time to sleep, time to reflect.

What an amazing journey it’s been,  not always perfect but certainly an eye opener. Our guide said to me that after your first trip to India you may not be sure if you really like it or not, but if you do go back a second time, you’ll love it. A third time and you’ll probably never leave. Hmm.

My first cup of train station chai was hard to drink and ended up in the garbage but now I will miss the tiny cups of sweetness. I’ll miss a lot of things in fact. Of course there are things I won’t be sad to say goodbye to, honking horns, street animals and garbage to name a few. Yes the garbage is out there for all to see but overall for the huge population there is way less than what we make. Evil plastic, but that’s a whole other topic.

I always feel slightly sad heading home, my adventures over. This time however, as I came through the doors of the airport and spied my almost two year old granddaughter running to me and calling my name, I couldn’t have been more excited to be back.  Until next time.

Not far from Varanasi is the city of Sarnath, one of four holy Buddhist sites that Buddha sanctioned himself for pilgrimage. The others being Lumbini (birth) in Nepal, Bodh Gaya (enlightenment) and Kushingar (death) in India. After Buddha attained enlightenment he came here to preach his message. In the 3rd century Emperor Ashoka had stupas and monasteries erected.  Muslim invaders sacked the city in the late 12th century, Sarnath disappeared but was rediscovered by British archaeologists in 1835.

After the crowded and chaotic Varanasi, Sarnath is so clean and well kept, a breathe of fresh air. Beautiful gardens and green spaces to walk around and enjoy. We start at the Mulagandha Kuti Vihar constructed by Sri Lanka’s Maha Virgo Society 1931.

Bodhi tree, planted from a sapling taken from the Sri Maha Bodhi tree of Anuradhapurai, Sri Lanka  ( oldest religious tree in the world) planted 1931

Prayer wheel

Beautiful frescoes on the wall showing the life of Buddha 

Close by ruins unearthed mid 19th century included once-magnificent stupas, shrines and monasteries

Dhamekha Stupa where Buddha delivered his first sermon

Wat Thai Sarnath Temple built by the Thai community

Big Buddha given by Thai government.

A beautiful place to take time to reflect and meditate.

Down to 3 of us now we leave the lazy beach days behind us and catch a flight to Varanasi. We’ve had time now to adjust to the chaos of India but nothing quite prepared us when we stepped out of the taxi. We’d had the hotel pick us up at the airport and had driven in silence as we drove the hour long ride.  We bounced along avoiding cows and people, dogs and potholes. Dust filled the air from work on a new elevated roadway, horns honked constantly and it felt like we’d never get there. Darkness had set in, headlights seem optional.

And then we stopped, time to get out but not a hotel in sight. We stood dumbfounded on the road in the middle of hundreds of people, cows and chaos. After a few moments a young man in a uniform popped out of nowhere, greeted us and grabbed all the bags. We followed closely behind, not wanting to get lost in the crowds. Through small alleyways we went dodging motorbikes, people and the odd cow, then finally we were at the hotel steps being greeted by the most friendly staff still shell shocked.

So much better in the daylight!

Varanasi is the spiritual capital of India. Every year millions of Hindu pilgrims come here to bathe in the Ganges River’s sacred waters. It’s believed that a single dip in the holy waters can wash away a lifetime of sins. Sadly I will leave still a sinner.

 Sunrise and sunset ceremonies are preformed daily and people gather on land and by boat fills to watch.

Varanasi dates back over 5000 years and is said to be one of the oldest inhabited cities of the world. 365  ghats line the river. Two of these ghats are where the Hindus cremate their dead. Fires burn day and night all year, the process very efficient. The men of the family watch but women stay at home. The Hindu believe that if a deceased’s ashes are laid in the Ganges, their soul will be transported to heaven and escape reincarnation. The only people who can’t be cremated are young children,pregnant women, holy men, people bitten by snakes and lepers. They are offered directly into the river.

Scenes around the river

Wood gathered from the jungle for cremation ceremony

Covered in ash from the cremated this spiritual man spends most of his days smoking marijuana 

Cool graffiti

A common symbol in India way before the Nazi party got hold of it

People bathe in the river and cows too!

And the laundry

2 sweet girls selling jewellery after school

Evening ceremony

Certainly one place I shall never forget.

We say our goodbyes and head about 25 miles north to Cherai Beach. Another from our tour has also planned to hang out there for a week or so too which was a fun coincidence.

Our hotel backs on to the backwaters and across the street from a very long sandy beach. It’s a quiet place, few tourists, no  bustling shops, just a few restaurants, homestays and the odd hotel. We quickly find what is to be our hangout, a restaurant with chairs on the beach. 

Although the backwater tours look inviting we’re just into chilling on the beach. Exactly what we need after the busy month!

We did venture into the nearest town one day, saw this drive by!

We arrive in the evening and after the tuk tuk confusion of bags and people we arrive at our hotel. After a nightcap on the breezy rooftop restaurant we head off to bed to rest up for the last few days of the tour.

Next day bright and early as usual we meet our local guide who will take us for a walk around town and point out the sights.

As we are learning about the fishing nets a pod of dolphins swim by. They seem to camera shy however.

Waiting for  handout

Jew Town, an area that was home to the oldest group of Jews in India dating back to the 12th century. Now the population is down to six.

Beating the laundry

Quite the iron

St Francis Church, built in 1503, oldest European church in India

Cardomen at the spice market

A very interesting cultural show, 2 men, lots of exaggerated facial expressions that tell a story that I can’t even begin to explain

Shrine to Mother Theresa

This restaurant had the best kathi  or kati rolls. Best described as a puff pastry type wrap full of a saucy goodness mix of either vegetables, prawns or chicken

This is the final full day of the tour and after a seafood dinner and some pleasant conversation we will start the goodbyes to a couple of our new friends who leave that night.

The next day there is some free time to wander before the rest of us say goodbye. Some last minute spice shopping and before long our Uber is here to take us to our next destination, a beach area about 25 kilometers north.

The tour has been great, busy with lots of moving around and new things to see and try but really amazing. 

Before long it’s time to leave Madikeri and climb back on board the minibus. Along the narrow, winding roads we go passing through small towns and villages all bustling with people, cows and dogs among other things.   Half way we pull off at a checkstop, we’re heading into Kerala, another state and need a permit for the bus. There are some small shops there so we get out for a stretch, snacks and chai.

After another hour or two of watching the landscape sail by we arrive at the train station. It will be our last train ride, a 7 hour journey to Kochi.The time passes quickly as we chat and do the odd chai run if there is time to hop off as the train stops at the various stations, no express trains!