After our fabulous time in Hoi An we decided to head north a little ways to Da Nang.  We had heard were 35 kilometres of beautiful, sandy beaches just waiting to be enjoyed.  We were both excited and optimistic that the weather would improve and we could take in the sights.

Two days later, cold and ill prepared for the climate change we decided to admit defeat and press on for Hanoi. The downfall of packing light is that we didn’t have any warm clothes. The beaches would have to wait for next time.

The weather report for Hanoi was promising…up until we got there.  It’s cool and overcast as we made our way from the airport to our hotel.  There we were greeted by the friendliest hotel staff we have ever encountered making our dampened spirits a whole lot brighter.

We headed out to explore our surrounding area despite the cold but by evening the mist had rolled in making it impossible to keep warm.  The Sunday market was held a few blocks over from our hotel so on our way out for dinner we cruised by for a look. Lots of interesting things but what caught my eye were jackets hanging up outside a shop. Two jackets for $10.00, can’t go wrong with that! Warm at last we spent the rest of the night walking around enjoying the market and even got in a walk around a misty lake.

The jackets proved a really good buy as it rained for the next few days.  Most of the things we had planned to do would not be the same in the rain so we booked a flight back to Bangkok and 30 degree sunshine.  I know for sure we’ll be heading back to Vietnam, so much more to see and do.

With the taste of hot, sunny beach time still on our minds we decide to indulge in a little R and R at a lovely resort in Hoi An.  The hotel is beach side and looks amazing on the website. We opt for a short flight versus a long train ride and arrive at our destination about the same time as a huge wind storm.

Being the hardy souls we are, we make for the beach despite the wind and clouds.  It’s a little brisk out and having spent the last 2 months in 26 plus degrees we’re freezing and my hair is standing on end.  This area was hit quite hard in the same bad storm that devastated the Philippines in the fall and some of the beach area is still being repaired.  We admit defeat and head inside for Happy Hour admiring the lovely sea view and pool from the warmth of the lounge.

The next day was better but still not beach weather so we head into town.  We had read it was a unique place but nothing prepared us for the magic of Hoi An.  It’s hard to describe but it’s a mix of old world European with ancient Chinese all wrapped up with Vietnamese charm.  We cross an ancient 16th century Japanese covered bridge that has a Buddhist temple in the middle of it.

 

This bridge originally divided the town from the Japanese settlement. The town was once the biggest harbour in Southeast Asia back in the 1st century and thus adopted many influences.

Over the next few days, all of which are cloudy but thankfully not as windy we explore as much of the city as possible.  The streets are absent of the hoards of motorbikes that we have seen so far and replaced instead with bicycles.  There are narrow, quiet streets with small shops full of handcrafted wares.  No signs of the chain stores, no Macdonalds, no Starbucks, no seven elevens, it’s all so refreshing.  And everywhere lanterns swing from wires, windows and shops, their cheerful bright appearance calm and adds to the special feeling this place offers.

There is a huge market full of fresh vegetables, fruit, fish and all kinds of other proteins.  It is a bustling place with motorbikes (there are still a few around) pulling up to do some road side shopping.  Between the locals and the tourists it makes for a slightly chaotic atmosphere.

We come across a sort of food court, for lack of a better word, here there are tables in the middle surrounded by cooking areas.  We walk around and gaze at the various dishes on display, each being prepared from scratch.  At cauldron filled with soup stock slowly cooks over a wood fire, a man skillfully makes noodles for the soup.  Some of the dishes aren’t what I even consider sampling but I did fall for a spicy beef soup that brought me back for more.  Had we gone back a third time, Nick was planning to try the spicy frog in lemongrass (I’m not just talking legs here but at least the head was cut off), we sadly.. never got back there.

The charm of this city goes on and on, the streets, the architecture, the people to name but a few things, but it’s the lanterns hung everywhere that make it seem so magical.

Our last night just happened to be a full moon, and unknown to us marks a special event here. Come evening all the electric lights are turned off and the town is lit only with lanterns.  It is a festive time with some shops closing for the event, and people are everywhere.  As we make our way through the streets there is music, games  and everyone is having a good time.  Street vendors sell treats and near the bridges (there are a few in town crossing the river) there are floating candles for sale.  Everywhere the lanterns are shining brightly, illuminating the only light we see.

A step back in time to be sure.

We came for the sun and the beach but left with so much more.

As we continue our exploration of Vietnam we find ourselves heading to the lovely beach area of Nha Trang, a perfect place for a little respite from all the big cities we have visited, or so we think. Not the quiet little beach town I expect but a big beach town that I suspect will get much bigger, a new airport has now opened a fair distance from town with lots of new development in between. The major thing that makes this place feel more like a city than a beach town is the excessive use of horns, much like Saigon.

The beach is a long stretch of soft sand with the occasional oasis of beach chairs and umbrellas. Swimmers are teased between gentle waves and big pops of surf that catch them off guard. There is a lovely park and paved path which separate the road from the beach. We take long walks along here stopping occasionally for refreshments at one of the inviting beach front restaurants.

Our first night here as we search for a place for our supper we are greeted by many smiling faces waving us into their establishment. The difficulty is deciding as each one is so welcoming, the menu is on display at most places, proudly boasting their meals. We see a lot of crocodile, ostriche, and frog, none of which I find appealing.

We finally come across an Italian restaurant with a non smoking upstairs, look at each other and head in, we do try to eat local but sometimes you just need pizza.  Good choice, great salad, pizza and pasta, soon we become loyal customers with samples and drinks on the house!

Hearing there is a great reef for snorkelling at Mun Island we sign up and take a boat out. There are a few divers aboard but its not crowded which is nice. The snorkelling is fantastic, the water a little cold and in hindsight we should have put on the offered wetsuits but what a great assortment of sea life.

It’s been nice and the temptation to extend our stay is strong but we decide to press on.  Since our hotel here has been quite inexpensive we opt for a beach front resort for our next stop, Hoi An.

Ah the sights and sounds of Saigon, and there certainly is lots of sounds.  We arrive in Ho Chi Minh City during Tet, their big New Years holiday.  Just like Chinese New Year, Tet is a lunar festival and this year it happens to run from the Jan 31st to Feb 7th, basically all of our stay here.  The mood is festive and there are displays and crowds of people everywhere.  The big downside to this is that for the first couple of days most eveything is closed, but by the 5th things started to reopen.

Saigon, the name most locals refer to HCMC, should certainly boast of being scooter capital of the world.  I have never seen so many and it seems every one is honking.  This as it turns out is probably a good things as it lets everyone know they’re coming through…through the crosswalk, through the red light, down the sidewalk and basically anywhere they can fit.

Crossing the streets is an art form and I marvel at young children dodging cars and bikes with ease as they cross 4 lanes of traffic.  We catch on fairly quickly or at least Nick does and I just stick close beside him. The trick is to move at a steady pace, watch everything around you and don’t make sudden moves.  The drivers are used to it all and everything seems to work in its own way.  Traffics circles are another matter and has to be seen to be believed.

Although there were several things we weren’t able to do because of the Tet, we did check put lots of the usual tourist sights.  At the War Museum we learned a lot about the Vietnam war from a whole different perspective. It was heartbreaking seeing pictures and reading the stories, it left us with an overwhelming sadness at the unnecessary loss of so much.

 

The streets are also alive with food stalls, restaurants and coffee shops everywhere.  One of the things the French left beside the Opera House and Notre Dame Cathedral is the bake shops.  Baguette and other delicious treats are everywhere!

The day before we leave Ben Thanh opens up, this is a huge market full of everything you can think of and a place I would have liked to browse much longer, oh well, my suitcase is crammed enough. By evening the night market came alive with vendors selling their wares and souvenirs.

It would have been nice to spend a few more days to do some of the things we wanted like the cooking course and the Ao show at the Opera House but it’s time to move on.  So as we sit at the airport waiting for our flight I think to myself….I’ll be back!

Penang Island is connected to the mainland of Malaysia by a 13.5 km bridge, very impressive. We arrive at the height of Chinese New Year, and the whole town seems to be filled with Chinese festivities. This party just goes on and on, but I’m told it ends Feb 1st, just in time for us to leave.

 

We stayed in the historic part of Georgetown, the usual tourist stuff, Old Fort Cornwallis, old buildings, churches, temples and mosques.

We wander around and take in the sights, turn the corner and are quickly transported to a totally different place. Smokey streaks of incense fill the air with pungent aroma, hypnotic music pours from the shops into the streets, we find ourselves in Little India.  There is a good feeling here and it quickly becomes one of our favourite places.  Now the fact that there were street vendors selling the most amazing samosas and onion bajja for 15 cents might have helped, that and we came across the best ever Indian food restaurant, open 24 hours a day where we feasted for $6…..you just can’t go wrong with that.

Now since Penang is known to be the food capital of Malaysia we did feel we had to sample some of the local cuisine, although there were a few dishes I wasn’t about to try, most of what we tried was quite good. Somehow though, we always ended up back at the Indian place.  It was nice to have the waiter know us and remember our usual drinks.  My favourite was a lime mint drink, I’m not talking a couple of mint sprigs here but totally crushed mint and lime….so good.

To combat all the Indian food we did a fair amount of walking and hiking.  We climbed to the top of the pagoda at Kek Lok Si Temple and it was hot, really hot and I counted the calories burned with each step.

The next day we took the funicular railway up (823 m above sea level) Penang Hill but hiked the rest of the way up from there and took a long walk around.

The view was really spectacular, especially when I spied a couple of monkeys sitting in the tree tops eating!

Another day we hopped a city bus and headed for Batu Feringgi which is the best beach near Georgetown.  It was about an hour long and 85 cents to get there such a good deal, a little crowded but all part of the experience. Fun to walk along the beach again and after a relaxing foot massage we hit the hawkers for some local food and then the night market.

The day before we left, two large Chinese dragons danced to the beat of a very loud drum throughout our hotel to chase out evil spirits and bring us luck for the new year.

Chinese New Year over and on now to Vietnam for their New Years!